To shell: Place the nuts in boiling water and boil 8 to 10 minutes. Drain off water and leave the nuts in the saucepan to dry off before shelling. by leaving the pan on low heat and drying chestnuts slightly, the kernels do not crumble upon shelling. With a small knife, take off the shells and thin brown skin. If the skin is stubborn, drop the chestnut back into boiling water for another minute or two; the heat will usually loosen the skin. Discard any chestnuts that are very hard and shriveled and cut away any possible moldy spots.

To roast: Make a 1/2 inch cut through the shell near the base to keep the nuts from bursting or exploding during roasting, place in a pan and roast in a 400 degree oven 15 to 20 minutes. Remove nuts from oven and place in the folds of a wool cloth to keep them soft while they cool. When nuts are cool, use a small knife to remove shells and brown skins.

"Chestnuts roasting on an open fire" is a great way to enjoy them. Try them on the barbecue. Or, place 1 layer of nuts in a long-handled pan, a fireplace popcorn popper, fire-safe frying pan, or chestnut roaster. Place over a low fire, balancing utensil on logs; shake often until nuts are mealy in center when broken open, 30 to 35 minutes.

Boiled chestnuts (for 1 pound fresh chestnuts): Using small sharp knife, cut an X in each chestnut. Cook chestnuts in large saucepan of boiling water until just tender, about 15 minutes. Working with batches, use slotted spoon to transfer several chestnuts to work surface. Remove hard shell and papery brown skin while chestnuts are still warm.

To store: Place the cooled, shelled nuts in airtight freezer bags, glass jars, plastic cartons, or clean cans. Store in the refrigerator for several months, or label and store in the freezer, where they may be kept up to 12 months. When frozen, take nuts from freezer and use within 4 hours.

Buying tips: When purchasing chestnuts at the supermarket, select ones that are plump, heavy, firm to the touch, and with unshriveled, unscarred, uncracked shells that are shiny brown.

How to puree fresh chestnuts: With a sharp knife, slash the flat side of each chestnut. Place in large saucepan; add enough cold water to cover chestnuts. Bring to boiling; boil 3 minutes. Remove from heat; peel off outer shell and inner brown skin. Return the shelled nuts to boiling water in saucepan. Cook 35 minutes more or until tender, adding more liquid if necessary; drain. Puree chestnuts through a sieve or food mill. Serve the puree hot, mixed with butter or margarine, salt, and pepper to taste. Or, sweeten the puree with sugar and add a fluff of whipped cream.

To dry: Dry in nut dryer or dehydrator until completely dry. Remove shell and inner skin. Store in dry place. To reconstitute, soak overnight in water, and cook 20 to 30 minutes.